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1 Faults In Cloth
There are many faults in grey cloth received from the loom and for which the manufacturer is held responsible. The most troublesome are those mentioned hereunder: - Warp Faults - Ends missing, floating ends, reedy, bare or badly covered cloth, faulty selvedges, oil stains, thick and thin places (see under each term). Weft Faults - Oil stains especially in doubled yarns, looped or ballooned weft, weft-bars, floats, thick and thin places, traps or smashes, box-marks (see under each term) -
2 Perching
A process for raising a nap on the back of heavy cotton fabrics such as moleskins, swansdown, etc. In the wool trade this term refers to the examination of fabrics in the open width, in a good light. The cloth is drawn over a "perch" or long roller fixed near to a window when all faults are shown up. The faults are repaired and imperfections made good by picking, hurling and mending. The perching is done before finishing. Picking consists in removing from the face of the cloth all hairs, kemps, straws, etc. Burling is removing from the back of the cloth all slubs, straws, etc., drawing out thick threads of warp and weft, opening the knots, and pushing loose ends and curls on to the back so that the face is clear of all irregularities. Mending is the inserting of yarn in places where threads of warp or weft are missing from the cloth. -
3 Verwerfung
f1. (Zurückweisung) rejection; JUR., einer Klage: dismissal; eines Urteils: quashing; eines Antrags etc.: overruling; verwerfen I 12. von Holz: warp(ing)3. GEOL. fault* * *die Verwerfungrejection* * *Ver|wẹr|fung [fEɐ'vɛrfʊŋ]f -, -en* * *(a crack in the rock surface of the earth: faults in the earth's crust.) fault* * *Ver·wer·fung<-, -en>f2. GEOL fault3. BAU warp[ing]4. SOZIOLgesellschaftliche/ökonomische Verwerfungen social/economic upheaval* * *1. (Zurückweisung) rejection; JUR, einer Klage: dismissal; eines Urteils: quashing; eines Antrags etc: overruling; → verwerfen A 12. von Holz: warp(ing)3. GEOL fault* * *f.warp n. -
4 Aeroplane Fabrics
Plain weave cloths, used for making wings of aeroplanes. The cloth must be well woven, and practically without faults. The widths vary from 36-in. to 56-in., and up to 160-ends X 160 picks per inch. A standard cotton fabric is woven 84 X 84 threads per inch of 2/80's warp and weft mercerised yam. A fair quantity has been woven 90/2 reed, 100 picks, from 3/120's warp and weft Sea Islands cotton. Linen yarns made from the best quality of flax have been used in great quantities for the manufacture of these fabrics. Often these cloths are boiled after being woven, which process removes impurities not required and give greater strength with a minimum weight. Finished cloths are afterwards put through a process known as "doping". These linens have a breaking strength very high in both warp and weft in 100's warp, 110's weft boiled yarns. -
5 Gloria Cloth
GLORIA CLOTH, GLORIA SILKA half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving. -
6 Gloria Silk
GLORIA CLOTH, GLORIA SILKA half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving. -
7 Mending
See Perching, Picking, Burling and Mending. Mending relates to the insertion of yarn in places where warp or weft is missing. It is skilful needlework, the object being to remove entirely the faults caused by missing yarn. The mender also takes out all knots in the cloth and replaces the thread cut out with new yarn. -
8 Sheetings, Proofing
SHEETINGS, PROOFINGA pure sized grey cloth woven from good quality American cotton yarns, usually 40-in. wide, and about 62 ends and 58 picks per inch, 26's warp, 44's weft. The cloth is pick found and must be well woven and free from yarn faults.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Sheetings, Proofing
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9 Thick And Thin Places
Faults in cloth due to irregular delivery of the warp and most in evidence at places where the loom has been stopped.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Thick And Thin Places
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10 Twills Proofing
Cotton fabrics to be coated with rubber require to be well woven, have a level face, and be quite free from faults. They are made 41-in. and wider. A fair quality is made 76 ends and 76 picks per inch, 36's warp, 38's weft.
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